Experiencing Rockland Maine
Photo taken by Marge Dwyer — Lupine growing on the side of the roads in Maine
There are some destinations that you visit only once and then there are some that you return to again and again.
Rockland Maine is such a place.
It’s classic New England with working lobster boats in the harbor, a vibrant art scene, quaint shops, and stunning landmarks, like the Breakwater Lighthouse that can be accessed by walking on a mile-long granite jetty.
June is an ideal time for a visit – with sunny days and temperatures in the mid-70’s. Lupines paint the roadsides in vibrant shades of purple and pink, puffins return for their annual breeding season, and the crowds of peak summer have yet to arrive before the tourist season kicks into high gear around the Fourth of July.
Where to Stay
My favorite place to stay is the Samoset Resort. Nautical and elegant, this resort has an 18-hole golf course, an outdoor heated pool overlooking Penobscot Bay, and great restaurants on site. Plus, you can see the Breakwater Lighthouse from the hotel. Delightful. The ambiance strikes the perfect balance between upscale elegance and down-home comfort. We had a microwave, keurig, refrigerator and freezer in our room and the balcony was so inviting as we sat in adirondack chairs overlooking the golf course and Penobscot Bay.
I’ve also stayed at the Rockland Harbor Hotel in the past, which is conveniently located across from the ferry if you plan to visit the islands of Matinicus, North Haven, and Vinalhaven. It is one of the more affordable options and within walking distance of many attractions and restaurants.
The Strawberry Hill Seaside Inn is another really nice place to stay and reasonably priced. The rooms are clean and spacious. You can see the ocean from your private patio or deck and enjoy birdwatching with binoculars that are supplied in each room. They have a nice pool and beautifully maintained grounds. It’s a very peaceful location.
Things to Do
If golf is your thing, the Samoset Resort offers an 18-hole champion golf course that is open to the public. They also provide golf cart tours of the property as well. Golf Digest named the course the “Pebble Beach of the East” so if you like to golf, this should definitely be on your bucket list.
Built to protect the harbor, the Rockland Breakwater is a landmark. Made of the same granite that was used to build the Washington Monument, this breathtaking walk extends into Penobscot Bay for nearly one mile. You’ll need a good pair of sneakers and be sure to watch your step, as the stones are a bit uneven. The view when you reach the end at the Breakwater Lighthouse is stunning. And you can go inside the lighthouse as well.
Farnsworth Art Museum houses an impressive American art collection with an emphasis on artists who lived or worked in Maine. You’ll find paintings, photography, and sculptures. If you’re a fan of James or Andrew Wyeth, you’ll want to be sure to visit.
Home to the largest collection of lighthouse, lifesaving, and U.S. Coast Guard artifacts in the nation, the Lighthouse Museum is a great place to visit to see what it is like to be a lighthouse keeper. You can listen to stories and display descriptions by scanning the QR codes. There is also a docent there as well. The gift shop is where you’ll find everything from scrimshaw to magnets, t-shirts, prints, and anything nautical you can think of with a lot of items handmade by Maine artists.
There is no shortage of quaint shops in Rockland. Stroll main street to enjoy charming cafes, restaurants, and gift shops. You may even wish to take in a movie at the Strand Theatre, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Rent bikes to enjoy scenic trails or rent kayaks and paddle the shoreline and coves. There are even some guided tours provided by places like Breakwater Kayak Company or Maine Sport Outfitters.
After all that fresh air and exercise, you've earned a sweet reward. Stop by Bixby Chocolate, where handcrafted chocolates share the spotlight with a cozy café serving specialty coffees, teas, and rich drinking chocolate. Be sure to browse their uniquely Maine-inspired treats, including their peanut butter lobster claws and dark chocolate covered blueberries. You can even book a tasting.
During the summer, there are many events that draw a crowd and showcase Maine’s uniqueness – from the Great Schooner Race in June, the North Atlantic Blues Festival in July, and the Maine Lobster Festival in August.
Visiting Matinicus, North Haven, or Vinalhaven islands is an easy day trip from Rockland. You’ll find all of the islands are fairly quiet with plenty of walking trails, beaches, a golf course in North Haven, shopping in quaint gift stores, and swimming in the quarries in Vinalhaven.
Nearby, Camden Hill State Park offers a stunning view of Camden harbor from Mount Battie. It’s a short hike or drive with parking at the top which features a WWI Memorial stone tower at the summit. It’s peaceful and serene. Bring a picnic lunch and a bottle of wine for a romantic afternoon.
Places to Eat
If you like seafood, and in particular, lobster, you’re in the right place. Maine is known for their lobster, and Rockland is considered the “lobster capital of the world.” So sweet and delicious. I used to lobster on the Cape in my younger days, so I’m no stranger to this tasty crustacean. There’s definitely something special about Maine lobster.
One of my favorites, Claws, may look like an unassuming shack on the side of the road. But don’t be fooled. You order at the window and they bring the food to your picnic table. Not a fancy restaurant, but oh so good. And they have many awards to prove it. Just take a look at their menu. You could return for lunch and dinner several days in a row and not have the same thing twice - but guaranteed to all be delicious. We had the great fortune to meet the owner, Luanne Stinson, while we were there recently. Kind and friendly, she introduced us to some of her family members and friends who worked there. It’s all about family and hospitality at this special place. You won’t be disappointed!
Another terrific seafood restaurant in Rockland is Archer’s on the Pier. Run by Lynn Archer, she sources her food locally and is a celebrity in Rockland, having beaten Bobby Flay when she was on Food Network’s “lobster throwdown.” The food is amazing, the views unbeatable, and the staff is super friendly. You may also want to try Hill’s Seafood Company for simple and fresh seafood. It’s another local favorite.
The Home Kitchen Cafe on Main Street is a favorite for breakfast, serving generous portions of delicious morning classics. What truly sets it apart, however, is the exceptional service—the friendly staff goes out of their way to make every guest feel welcome, comfortable, and well cared for. The sticky cinnamon buns are worth the calories and a signature item. They open at 8:00 a.m., and there’s a line at the door before then.
But if you just cannot wait and only want the cinnamon buns, try visiting the Home Kitchen Bakery just a couple of blocks away where you’ll find lots of made-from-scratch baked goods, including loaves of bread, cookies, squares, whoopie pies, cream horns, and eclairs.
The Highlight on this Trip
Puffin Viewing.
We boarded Hardy Boat Cruises in New Harbor, about an hour south of Rockland to take a trip out to Eastern Egg Rock. The naturalist from the Audubon Society was very informative. As the boat made the 30-minute journey, she let us know that the Atlantic Puffin saw a major decline in the 19th century due to the overharvesting of eggs. The Audubon Society re-introduced the puffins to their former nesting island to great success. The female lays only one egg at a time and both parents nurture the puffling.
Surprisingly small at around the size of a large crow, but very heavy and stocky, these little birds are fast, beating their wings up to 400 times a minute to get liftoff into the air. The Atlantic puffins stay out at sea for most of the year; though, they come ashore to breed and raise their pufflings during June and July.
Pro Tip
If you are traveling from the Boston area, you’ll likely find yourself traveling through Wiscasset on your way to Rockland. Timing your travel to stop at Spraque’s Lobster is well worth it. Located just before the bridge on Route 1, this family owned restaurant has many seafood delights, including delicious lobster rolls. We stop there each and every time. Chock full of all parts of the lobster - claws, knuckles, and tail, it is served to you naked on a toasted bun with melted butter and mayo on the side. There is so much meat that one roll can definitely feed two people. Bring cash because credit cards are not accepted.
Rockland Maine is a destination that beckons you to return time and time again. The locals are friendly. The food is amazing. And there is plenty to do and see if this quintessential New England town.